Find Your Divine Side on the Yucatán’s Island of Women

Divertido is the Spanish word for fun – and Isla Mujeres has fun figured out. Pristine beaches, elegant beach clubs, Mayan goddesses, panoramic ocean views, seafood, tacos, a brewery, impromptu street performers, golf carts, margaritas and swing chairs. The island is located where the Gulf of Mexico meets the Caribbean Sea, about 13 km. off the Yucatan Peninsula, in the state of Quintana Roo, Mexico. Just a 20-minute ferry ride from Cancun, the island feels far away from the city’s monolithic all-inclusives and has a vibe all its own. Isla Mujeres is Spanish for the “island of women,” but no worries – men have also inhabited the island since the Mayans disappeared around the 5th century.

The contrasts I love about Mexico are abundant here in Isla – cemeteries and taco stands wedged in beside luxe hotels, the touristy downtown vs the warren of old streets in old neighbourhoods, the party town atmosphere of night followed by the serenity of the morning ocean walk — Isla Mujeres is a microcosm of the country. Many day-trip to Isla from Cancun but the island is worth a longer visit. The chill ambience is enhanced by the fact there are no cars (except for taxis and local vehicles). One of the smallest islands in the Caribbean, it is less than five miles long and visitors walk or get around on golf carts. People are friendly, most of the store & restaurant owners are Mexican and many are from the island. There’s a sense of community among the locals that can be felt by the tourist and the island is very relaxed and safe. Since Isla is only 2130 feet (650 metres) wide, it benefits from the cool winds blowing from the Mar Caribe (Caribbean sea) over the small island to the Bahia Mujeres (Mujeres Bay) which separates it from Cancun. And with two inland salt water lagoons (salinas), it’s a surefire recipe for fresh air. The true heart of Isla is in its people – the island Isleños, expats turned Isleño and visitors who often feel like Isleños.

The Ferry

The journey to Isla Mujeres starts with the ferry, an easy and comfortable 20-minute ride from Cancun to Isla, and an exciting way to begin the trip. The ferry provides breezy views from the unique vantage point of the water. During high season, there are often musicians on board to add to the experience. The most frequent departures are from Puerto Juarez port on the Ultramar Ferry. The XCaret ferry leaves from Playa Tortugas & Playa Caracol in the Hotel Zone, which is more convenient if one is staying in the zone. They both arrive in the same port, which is close to the hotels and restaurants in Playa Norte and no more than a 20 minute taxi ride anywhere else on the island. Private water taxis are also available, as are Catamarans. As recently as 1970, the sons of local fishermen would transport visitors back and forth in their fishing boats, but that was a different chapter in Isla’s history.

Isla Mujeres, Mexico, El Centro Market. Playa Norte, El Centro, golf

Street scene in El Centro. There’s a small town charm and a kind of laid-back magic that makes this destination popular. At top, Sunset from Isla Hotel looking at Cancun across the water. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

El Centro and the Hotel Zone

Most of the tourists hang out in the north part, the Manuel Hidalgo district, El Centro, which is considered the downtown. Most of the hotels are in this area, along with a multitude of cafes and restaurants. Since only locals are allowed to drive cars, the streets are filled with taxis, golf carts and mainly pedestrian traffic. Part of the charm of the island is that the hotels don’t dominate the landscape – most are smallish boutique hotels and even the larger ones seem integrated into the island. The middle island and south end are developing more of a tourism infrastructure as well. Wherever one is staying, it doesn’t take more than about twenty minutes in a taxi to get anywhere. There are also quite a few Airbnbs and rental condos all over the island and there is a large Chedraui store (like a Mexican Walmart) that sells a wide range of groceries, alcohol and even clothing.

I’m visiting during Carnivale and the place is buzzing. Carnivale is a lively annual festival held for five days leading up to Lent. We grab a table facing the street at Bourbon Steakhouse and watch adorable young women in red sparkly costumes dance in front of Mama Rosa’s restaurant to the beat of Soca music (a blend of calypso, Indian rhythms and electronic beats). Young men, dressed as pirates, dance with the trigueñas (Trigueña is a term used in Mexico for an olive-skinned woman). Athletic boys do backflips for the restaurant crowd. The main festivities are at the Town Square in El Centro (downtown), with parades all over the island. Beware – the hotels book up quickly for this event, as it’s a festive time.

Goddesses, Pirates, Salt and a Sculpture Garden

Isla Mujeres is named for Ixchel, the Mayan Goddess of the moon, childbirth, fertility, happiness and medicine, who once ruled over the island. Legend has it that the island was named in 1517 by the Spanish explorer, Cordova, when his expedition found many female-shaped idols representing the goddess. Isla Mujeres was one of the four provinces or Mayan territories that formed what is today the State of Quintana Roo. The Maya mined the salt the island produced in the salinas, using it in food preservation, medicine and also as a currency. Isla was also visited by pirates like Henry Morgan in the early 1800’s and the lagoon on the mainland side was a resting spot for them to shelter from a storm. The lagoons now serve as scenic inland waterways for a variety of boats.

Colourful mosaics in La Gloria. Also known as the El Cañotal stairs, these multi-coloured, vibrant steps descend into the inland lagoon/lake area and serve as one of the most popular photography spots on the island. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

It’s a tradition for Isleños to greet the first rays of the sun at the dawn of each new year at Punta Sur, the most southerly part of Isla and the most easterly point of Mexico. This is something to catch if you are here at New Year’s. A Mayan Temple, once used as a lighthouse, was located here and the ruins can still be seen. The Sculpture Garden, a dramatic collection of contemporary sculptures by local artists depicting the Mayan goddesses and other legendary figures, is located in this sacred spot, on the rocky seaside cliffs of the Caribbean. It can be a contemplative place, far from the crowds, if visited early or late in the day. Isla Mujeres is also known for its fantastic sunsets, which can be viewed from many vantage points on the west side of the island, looking towards Cancun.

The Beaches – no sargassum!

Popular Playa Norte is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Yucatan and is often crowded. Soft white sand with shallow, cerulean-blue ocean waters that seem walkable to infinity, it is usually spared the sargassum (seaweed) that has been a huge problem for the resorts in Cancun and all down the Yucatan coast. Because of its north-facing coast, Playa Norte is not in the path of the smelly sargassum which drifts in to the Caribbean coast from the North Atlantic Ocean’s Sargasso Sea. This is a naturally occurring phenomenon, however, climate change and shifts in the ocean currents have made it worse in recent years. Its effects can be felt as far south as Brazil.

The beaches are public and anyone can place a towel anywhere. If an umbrella and chair are more to your taste, a beach club can supply them, for a small price. The beaches on the Caribbean side are wild and beautiful, but mostly unswimmable due to the rocky shores and rough waters.

Tiny fish provide a pleasant micro-massage at Fish Spa Therapy. A “fish pedicure” uses toothless Garra rufa fish—often called doctor fish—to gently nibble and suck away dead skin and calluses. It has been used to treat conditions like psoriasis but some experts argue there are some health risks. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

The Beach Club

The beach club is a quintessential part of the Isla experience and it can be tailored to your wishes. Loud or quiet, you choose. Lie on the beach all day under a private palapa, order drinks and food, get a massage or jump on a trampoline. Some clubs are quite sophisticated and most will bring meals and fancy drinks to your beach chair, for a reasonable fee. Several have beautiful pools and will rent kayaks. Many play loud music with raucous DJ sets on the weekend, but others are quieter, with a more relaxed scene. . Daytrippers from Cancun come over on the ferry in the morning, spend a day on the beach, have dinner and return on the last ferry.

The Golf Cart, the Malecon and Divertidos along the way

For me, renting a golf cart is half the fun, as you can zip around the island, along the ocean roads, through the old neighbourhoods, until you are hungry or tired. You can pick up a golf cart almost anywhere, park almost anywhere or the hotels can arrange one for you. They are fairly expensive, so try to pick a nice day. But watch out – when leaving El Centro, golf cart gridlock can be a thing here!

If you are staying in El Centro, head out of town and pass the naval base and then turn left to get to the breezy Caribbean side. Stop and take a walk on the Malecon, a one kilometre walking path with stunning views of the Caribbean. There are many little local restaurants, coffee shops and bars to try on your golf cart journey and colourful chapels pop up here and there. The Guadelupe Chapel is worth a visit if only for its stunning ocean views and the Edge of the World cafe next door has great coffee, food and dramatic vistas.

The Sculpture Garden is a must-visit on Isla. Located on the southernmost cliffside of the island, it combines contemporary art and Mayan heritage with breathtaking panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

Las Colonias (The Local Neighbourhoods) – Murals, Mosaics and Tacos

For a taste of the original Isla Mujeres, a visit to one of the authentic residential neighbourhoods which make up Las Colonias is essential. Situated between El Centro and Punta Sur, this is where most of the Isleños live. Key neighbourhoods include La Gloria, Salina Grande, Salina Chica, Canotal and Meteorologico. Here you can experience the quieter, daily rhythm of the island.

You will find colourful and quirky houses, churches, people standing on the street talking with neighbours, mosaics, murals and street art created by local artisans, taco stands and small restaurants which serve authentic, affordable Yucatecan food. A number of new hotels, condos, AirBnBs and even a couple of all-inclusives have opened up, within walking distance to these older neighbourhoods.

A key part of the experience is taking in the quieter, rocky Caribbean coastline on the eastern side. After, if you are on the way back to El Centro, stop in at Soggy Peso or The Joint to remind yourself you are not yet an Isleño, but still, in fact, a tourista.

The Food – Yucatec, the Original Fusion Cuisine

Isla has a vibrant restaurant scene and you can choose from gourmet Mexican fusion to upscale Mediterranean, a burger at a sportsbar or eating like an Isleño at a fresh taco stand. Taco stands can be found all over the island and although most of the restaurants, usually open-air or garden-style, are concentrated in the downtown, there are also plenty to choose from mid-island or in the south end. The Loncheria (which loosely translates as lunch box) is a tradition in Mexico. Open only for breakfast and lunch, each kitchen serves recipes that have been handed down through generations of the family. Choosing where to eat is part of the fun and it is possible to eat your way around the island.

While staying downtown at Ixchel Hotel, we try a number of places on and around Avenida Hidalgo. We stop at El Rincon Isleño (across from Zama Beach Club, between NautiBeach and Privileges Aluxes Hotels) for a margarita and to listen to a live DJ. Having a margarita while swaying in a swing seat is an experience not to be missed.

Beach lunch at Maya Beach Club, Playa Norte. Isla Mujeres offers a spectacular food scene that blends fresh, ocean-to-table Caribbean seafood with rich, authentic Yucatán Peninsula flavors. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

We’re lucky to get a seat at the bar on the packed third floor patio at Rosa Sirena’s in the Meteorologica district. At Rosa Sirena’s, I order a Mole Verde with a glass of vino tinto. A Mexican mole is a traditional sauce made from a rich blend of dried chiles, spices, nuts, seeds and sometimes fruit or chocolate. The Mole Verde is made with seared pork belly served on a tamale, with salsa verde, a vibrant sauce from Oaxaca, made with pepitas (ground pumpkin seeds) and sesame seeds, combined with fresh peppers, herbs like cilantro and spices. Rosa’s salsa roja is made with red tomatoes, chilli peppers, onions and garlic. Popular dishes here include Frijoles Charros soup topped with grilled Longaniza, a seasoned pork sausage from the Mexican town of Valladolid and Grilled Octopus with acelgas (a Mexican swiss chard) and confit potatoes.

Isla’s style of Mexican food is a Yucatec cuisine inspired by its Mayan roots. Tikin Xic is an Isla fish specialty, usually made with a whole grouper or red snapper, which is butterflied, marinated with an adobo de achiote sauce and sour oranges, wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked in an earth oven beneath a wood fire. Of course, there are many varieties of seafood and fish, and they always make a great ceviche. Cochinita Pibil, a traditional Yucatec Mayan slow-roasted pork dish, is a Sunday morning ritual. Sopa de Lima, the Mayan chicken and lime soup and Poc Chuc, a dish made of pounded pork loin or shoulder marinated in sour orange and grilled over charcoal, are also considered iconic Yucatan dishes.

Christmas in the El Centro Market. It is a vibrant, authentic hub offering fresh local produce, budget-friendly eateries, and everyday goods. (Diane Penwill photos for VacayNetwork.com)

Snorkeling, scuba diving, swimming with dolphins and bespoke experiences – but no golf

In spite of the number of golf carts, leave your clubs at home – there’s no golf course. However,, even though Isla Mujeres is a small island, there’s an abundance of activities. Isla is close to many coral reefs, such as the one in Garrifon Park, an attraction popular for snorkelling and scuba diving. A catamaran or speed boat can be rented for the day with companies such as XCaret sailing. Bicycles are also available. Expeditions can take you out to swim with dolphins or whale sharks. Snorkelling and scuba diving are popular. You can go on a three-hour snorkelling tour, which stops at the largest coral reef in the area, the Manchones, swim in a shallow reef and get up close to tropical fish and other marine life. You will see the Cancun Underwater Museum, created by an English sculptor to draw attention to and protect the reefs. Afterwards, enjoy a fresh seafood lunch at a beach club restaurant and try the tasty BBQ Chicken “Tikin Xic”. For the best view of the underwater museum, to swim with whale sharks and see dolphins and manta rays, a full-day scuba diving trip is necessary.

View the sunset from a romantic table on the beach — several beach clubs and restaurants will set up a private table on the sand for a couple, a group or a solo diner, complete with white table cloths and candles. They are also happy to organize a complete wedding experience. Create your own vacation — stay for a bit and you will start to feel like an Isleño on this divine island. As I watch the fading light shimmer like laughter over the bay, I feel a bit blessed.

MORE ABOUT ISLA MUJERES

Website: https://isla-mujeres.net

Accommodation

There’s a wide range of options – choose from all-inclusive hotels like the luxurious Almare Hotel near La Gloria,or upscale hotels like Privileges Aluxes and Ixchel Hotel in El Centro. More basic, comfortable hotels like Paradise Suites are also available in El Centro. As well, Nautibeach Hotel & Condos has kitchens and a few bedrooms, which are great for families or those wanting a more independent lifestyle and to still be close to the action.

There are several high-end hotels mid-island like Izla Hotels and smaller, boutique hotels like Isla Retreats.

Almare Hotel

Izla Hotel

Isla Retreats

Privileges Aluxes Hotel

Ixchel Beach Hotel

Paradise Suites

NautiBeach Hotel & Condos

Nilu by Selina (community dorm rooms)

Restaurants

El Centro Downtown

Grill Garden