In the Happiest Country in the World, I Gained Empowerment

It’s a chilly March afternoon at Finland’s Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort’s Lake Smoke Sauna. After spending 15 minutes in the deeply relaxing warmth of the authentic Finnish smoke sauna, I head to the deck wrapped in a towel, trying to convince myself that I can actually DO the cold plunge — a centuries-old Finnish tradition said to offer physical and spiritual cleansing, quiet reflection, and connection with nature.

While descending towards the lake, my heart pounds as I feel the icy Arctic air hit my face. Donning my bathing suit and socks, I drop my towel and, without thinking about how frigid the lake is, quickly descend the steps into the pool. I gasp as the water touches my legs, but I remember to keep going.

“You’re doing so great, you got this, remember to breathe in and breathe out!” call out my newfound friends, encouraging me from the sidelines. I lasted a mere 10 seconds before emerging triumphant. Right away, this supportive group of women, complete strangers just days earlier, hug and wrap me in a towel.

A few days earlier, I arrived in Lapland, the largest and most northernmost region in Finland, one that is blanketed in snow for seven months of the year. I was here with SOLO Travel Collection, a female-only travel and tours company founded by CEO Nadine Paulo.

After spending 15-plus years designing journeys for global operators, Paulo was eager to start her own tour company.

“With SOLO, I choose destinations that are unhurried, ones that are a little more removed than the top 10 destinations, where women can exhale a little easier,” says Paulo. “These journeys are adventurous, intentional, and full of heart.”

During the following five fun-filled days, I bonded with like-minded women, all but one of whom were a couple of decades younger than me.

Finland’s Arctic Glass Igloo Stays

My home for three nights was a Kelo Glass Igloo, a cozy Nordic timber retreat with a private sauna, a crackling fireplace, and a panoramic glass dome, where evenings were spent unwinding as the quiet of the forest settled around me.

The first of its kind, the Kelo glass igloo was conceived by the owner of Kakslauttanen, Jussi Eiramo — a man whose vision placed Kakslauttanen firmly on the global tourist map. I sat with Eiramo to hear his story of how the place came to be.

Nestled 150 miles (240 kilometers) north of the Arctic Circle, Kakslauttanen is set amid 1,200 acres of endless pine forests, frozen lakes, and untouched wilderness bordering Norway, Sweden, Russia, and the Baltic Sea. Kakslauttanen is a destination that transcends the ordinary, transporting you into a winter fairytale.

“It was purely by chance,” says the affable Eiramo. “It was the summer of 1973, and I was on a fishing trip to Utsjoki, Finland’s northern west village, when my car ran out of fuel.”

Eiramo couldn’t find help. Just mile after mile of untouched land. The next summer, he came back to camp. On his next visit, Eiramo set up a cafe in a small chalet, serving visitors en route to North Cape. Each year that he returned, Eiramo added new amenities to draw visitors. Today, Kakslauttanen is a world-class, family-run resort, recognized as one of Finland’s premier travel destinations.

My first day, after a delicious Nordic-inspired dinner, I bundled up for an evening reindeer sleigh ride in search of the aurora borealis, or Northern Lights — a phenomenon I had dreamed of witnessing for years.

Alas, it was not to be. However, after a couple of days of cloudy weather and no sightings, we were told one night we might get a glimpse. Around midnight, the clouds faded, and the crystal-clear skies suddenly transformed into brilliant, swirling shades of green. Excitement rippled through me as I lay in my dome igloo, witnessing the sky shift and glow.

Every day brought a new adventure.

Whether I was snowmobiling through the magical Arctic wilderness, exploring frozen lakes along snow-laden trails; horseback riding through forests on the nation’s national breed, the Finnish horse; wrapped in blankets cocooned in a sleigh pulled by reindeer gliding along with the soft crunch of snow and the rhythmic jingle of harness bells; or the sheer thrill of dog sledding with a team of eager huskies mushing through a winter wonderland, the trip was pure Valhalla.

To the delight of my four grandchildren, I met the “real” Santa (in Finnish, his name is Joulupukki), and his trusted elf at his home at Kakslauttanen. Sitting in his cozy home by the fireplace, drinking tea and munching on a home-baked ginger cookie, I have to admit, I was a little starstruck.

Each day, I dined in the Aurora Restaurant, a traditional Lappish log restaurant within the resort that offered both traditional and international cuisine. The Swedish/Finnish chef, Guy Hornborg, trained and worked in Portugal, Switzerland, and Sweden, before coming to the resort less than a year ago.

Hornborg’s international culinary skills are evident in the daily menu. One evening, I dined on reindeer stew, thinly sliced meat pan-fried in butter, served atop rice and vegetables. My favorite meal had to be the whitefish (siika), lightly grilled with a fresh dill and lemon cream sauce, on a bed of pea puree and mashed potatoes. I understand why the flaky whitefish is considered a delicacy deeply rooted in Nordic culinary traditions.

Female-only travel is a global trend that continues to rise every year. According to a February 2026 article in Canadian Travel News, women over 50 are dominating adventure travel.

While traveling with SOLO, I met women of various ages, and we quickly bonded over the love of travel. Although SOLO offers a variety of trips around the globe, the journey to Finland was ideal for me. Every aspect of the trip was perfectly curated, while allowing for downtime. As I navigated the days, everyone’s success and challenge became a unifying moment, a sisterhood of sorts where we all celebrated each other.

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I arrived in the happiest country in the world — a title the United Nations has bestowed on Finland in its World Happiness Report 2026 — four days before meeting up with the SOLO team. It doesn’t take long to uncover why the Finnish are happy, they  spend a lot of time communing in nature, and they are very friendly.

My home in Helsinki for three nights was Marriott Bonvoy’s boutique Hotel U14. My suite was resplendent with jungle-themed wallpaper, prompting one of my friends to ask if I was in Africa.

One enters Hotel U14 into a contemporary reception adorned with a few quirky, fun details, including the hotel’s own hippo ornamentation. From the exceptional service to the coziest bed, to a fabulous breakfast buffet, Hotel U14’s feel is one of playfulness coupled with upscale amenities.

Then, it was time to explore the quintessential Nordic city, Helsinki, capital and most populous, located appropriately on the Gulf of Finland.

The vibrant coastal city is also considered the safest in the world, according to the Mercer 2019 Quality of Living Rankings. I felt comfortable walking Helsinki’s cobblestone streets at night. Most of the city center’s streets are paved with century-old rectangular bricks called Belgian blocks, a slightly pinkish granite quarried when Helsinki was initially founded.

That first night, I met up with Helsinki Partners’ tourism manager, Kristiina Syvaoja for dinner at Wellamo. Considered one of Helsinki’s best restaurants, the charming 31-seater is situated in the historic district of Katajanokka.

Wellamo masterfully blends Old World sophistication with distinctly Finnish culinary innovation. Sommelier Otto Rothberg brought us a smooth, bold French wine to pair with the four-course menu. Chef Joonas Kallio told me the restaurant’s philosophy is simple: “Use the best local ingredients to create delicious food with unnecessary fuss.”

I began with a cheese tartlet with cloudberry, a rare and highly prized berry that grows in Lapland. It was the perfect starter. From there, I bit into the rich, salty salsify, hazelnut and smoked yolk, followed by burbot (a delicious fish). Although satiated, Syvaoja encouraged me to try the lingonberry dessert. She was right, it was light, tangy, and creamy. And honestly, a little addictive.

Each morning, I looked forward to U14’s buffet breakfast, considered one of the top 10 best breakfast spots in Helsinki by breakfast-hotels.com. It is a feast for the senses, beginning with the fine cup of coffee, healthy ginger shots, and a vast array of fruits, meats, breads, and more.

Then it was off for a food tour. I met up with Fork in Hand’s founder/guide, Heather Domeney, in the heart of the city at the Alexis Kivi statue — the nation’s foremost Finnish author and playwright. The five-hour walking tour took me on a journey to uncover culinary gems, from salmon soup to reindeer and brown bear sausage, to artisan chocolates, and the national dish of Finland, the tasty Karelian pasty.

Along the way, I heard that the Helsinki Central Railway Station, the most famous example of Finnish Art Deco, was built in 1856 during the Russian Empire. Closed for decades, it reopened in 1919 and now stands as one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Another favorite spot was Old Market Hall. Opened in 1889, the indoor market offers a mix of tradition, flavors, and vibrant atmosphere. Located along the city’s scenic South Harbour, I could have spent more time there.

That evening, I walked along the harbor in Helsinki’s Kanavaranta district to dine at Nokka, a 2024 Michelin Green Star winner (for its environmental commitment). Nokka offers a sophisticated dining experience that combines architectural elegance with culinary excellence. Inside a refurbished brick warehouse, the restaurant features a large anchor that welcomes you in.

Once I chose the dishes from the four-course menu — a carte du jour that honors Finnish culinary heritage and organic ingredients — the sommelier suggested the Italian Bolgheri DOC Rosso’s 2023 Le Serre Nuove Dell’ Ornellaia. Smooth and bold, it paired beautifully with each course.

Nokka is a pioneer of Finnish gastronomy, from the beetroot brioche and fried hempseed with quinoa tempeh, to the blini with crème fraîche, pickled red onions and vendace roe, which was at once sweet, salty, and almost mousse-like, each course showcased the chef’s dedication to sustainability and innovation. My unforgettable experience solidified Nokka’s reputation as a world-class dining destination.

The next day, after an hour walk along Helsinki’s 130-kilometer waterfront trail, I visited the Suomenlinna sea fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the crown jewel of Helsinki. The treasured fortress is touted as one of its most unique and scenic places; it truly lived up to the hype.

You need to take a ferry from the city center. The ride itself was a memorable experience, as the harbor was frozen over, so the ferry had to break ice each way. The short ride offered views of the skyline and the Baltic Sea.

Once on the island, the wind carried the sharp scent of the sea. My boots crunched against the packed snow as I walked in search of the tour guide. At the fortress, I found myself surrounded by coastal cliffs, old stone walls, museums, and quiet residential streets that are still inhabited today. (Eight-hundred residents live there.)

The guide explained that Suomenlinna has a rich and colorful history. Built by Sweden in 1750, it was a maritime fortress. In 1808, Suomenlinna surrendered to Russian troops, and it became a Russian military base and garrison town. In 1918, a year after Finland became independent, a new regime took over the fortress.

All too soon, it was time to say my goodbyes. I was surprised by how bittersweet the moment was. The trip was about so much more than uncovering new destinations. With the support of my fellow intrepid explorers, I found empowerment.