Savoring the Tarts, Landscapes, and Charms of Portugal

It’s a clear day as my plane flies over the Tagus River on approach to Lisbon. They call Lisbon the City of the Seven Hills, although out of the window, it looks a lot less daunting. But once on ground level, I begin to appreciate the city’s moniker as I stare up the angled streets and watch turn-of-the-century yellow funiculars slowly creep up the slopes. I look on the bright side: Any vacation where I can indulge in gastronomy while having an enjoyable way to work off the calories is a good thing, and thus, I prepare myself to tackle the hills.

My home for the next three days is the 83-room NH Collection Lisboa Liberdade, perched high in the middle of Avenida Liberdade, Lisbon’s grandest boulevard. I’m greeted with a welcome drink at the cozy lobby bar before settling in my nicely appointed room. The hotel’s central and hillside location provides my daily workout but still has easy access to the metro and the train station when I feel sluggish.

Stretching just over two-thirds of a mile from the Praça Marquês de Pombal roundabout to the Praça dos Restauradores, Avenida Liberdade makes a great stroll to stretch my legs after a trans-atlantic flight, with frequent stops to window shop the haute couture stores along the way. But I don’t linger long, as the displayed price tags encourage me to move on.

For my first overview of Lisbon, a friend recommended Sandemans New Europe, which provides free walking tours in major European cities. Booking turns out to be a cinch on the company’s website. Then, at the appointed time, I find the guide, identified by the ubiquitous red umbrella under his arm, at Praça Luís de Camões. For the next two-and-a-half hours, the guide takes the 13 of us through the streets of Lisbon and its spectacular viewpoints while regaling us with the stories of the city’s history and people. We stop in front of A Brasileira do Chiado café, built by proprietor Adriano Telles do Valle, the passionate merchant who introduced Brazilian coffee to Lisbon and instilled coffee culture in the Portuguese capital. We duck into Livraria Bertrand, established in 1732 and recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest book shop in the world; and admire the Azulejos — colorful tiles introduced by the Moors in the 13th century that adorn the sides of many buildings. The tour finishes at Largo do Carmo square with a tale of the peaceful Carnation Revolution in 1974, where the authoritarian government was overthrown by a peaceful military coup. That fateful date was April 25, and I realize I’m here just ten days before its 50th anniversary.

After being on my feet all afternoon, I was ready for a time out — and there’s no better place than the aptly named Time Out Market down by the waterfront. Found in many major cities including Montreal, Chicago, Dubai, Cape Town, and Barcelona, the market concept actually originated here in 2014, created by the Lisbon editorial team from the Time Out digital publication. Inside the imposing building topped with a white dome, vetted vendors approved by the experts at the publication offer a cornucopia of local food and beverages — just order from any of them and eat at communal tables. The market is abuzz with diners as I walk in, but over the delightful din, I hear the Pastéis de Nata calling my name. These Portuguese tarts are a must-try for everyone visiting the country, and at just €1.25 (about $1.30 USD) a pop, the sweet custard housed in flaky pastry went down easy, washed down with a Super Bock Portuguese stout. Dark beer and tarts may not be an ideal combination, but I’m here to sample local cuisine in a short amount of time, so why not accomplish two feats at once?

As I leave the market for my uphill climb towards Avenida Liberdade, I am confronted by an endless contingent of tuk-tuks — auto rickshaws that patrol the streets of Lisbon, offering tours and rescuing visitors from climbing the hills. I’m surprised to see these three-wheeled cabs normally associated with Southeast Asia popularized in these parts, but they do the job and are a welcomed respite for tired legs and cranky children. I politely decline, as I have tarts and beer calories to burn off.

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Back at NH Collection Lisboa Liberdade, I put my feet up at the rooftop bar and replenish my calories with a fishbowl-sized G&T made with Sharish gin, distilled in the south-central Portuguese region of Alentejo. From my vantage point, I look south towards downtown Lisbon, and over the orange-tiled rooftops, I spy a cruise ship sailing along the Tagus River at the bottom of the hill. In early May, the sun is warm, the rooftop is a perfect spot for happy hour after a day of sightseeing, and the inviting pool provides reprieve when the temperature rises.

The next day on my walk from the hotel, I chance across a craft market on Avenida Liberdade, where handmade jewelry, small leather goods, and colorful scarves can be snapped up for €10-€20 ($11-$22 USD), with a bonus of striking up conversations with local artisans. A €5 ($5.50 USD) straw hat is a good find as I head out on a cloudless day to catch a suburban train to Belém, a community along the Tagus River about six miles (9.7 kilometres) west of Lisbon.

More Portuguese tarts await me there, this time I seek out Pastéis de Belém, whose shop is easily spotted by the blue awnings and the snaking lineup out the door. Fortunately for me, that’s the take-out line, and I slip inside the adjoining café for a seat and dig into the delicious tarts. How are these different from the Pastéis de Nata I had in Lisbon? Similar to the rules of calling a whisky Scotch and a sparkling wine Champagne, only tarts made here can be called Pastéis de Belém, and as I savor every morsel, I learn their interesting origin story.

Back in the mid-19th century, egg whites were used to starch the uniforms of the nuns and monks at the Jerónimos Monastery just down the street. Rather than throwing the egg yolks away, the nuns decided to make custard and incorporate it into this sweet treat. Passed down through generations, today’s Pastéis de Belém still follows the original “secret” recipe created by the nuns, while the Pastéis de Nata recipe can vary between bakeries.

But there is a lot more to Belém than tarts. There is, of course, the Jerónimos Monastery, which, much to my chagrin, is closed when I arrive.  It would have been nice to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site and see the tomb of Vasco de Gama, for whom the monastery was originally built. Instead, I admire its intricately carved stone façade and quietly thank the nuns for creating the legendary tarts.

My waterfront walk takes me to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos — Monument of the Discoveries, built in 1960 to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, and the Belém Tower, once a defensive fort but today has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Tagus is gleaming in the sun, and in the distance, I spy the April 25th Bridge, sister to the Golden Gate in San Francisco.

The next morning, after a sumptuous buffet breakfast at the hotel, I walk down to Rossio station to catch a train to Sintra. Forty minutes later, I arrive at the charming town, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sintra was the summer residence of the kings of Portugal, and I can immediately see why as I step off the train to cooler temperatures and lush forests.

The windy road leads me up to Sintra’s cultural center, dominated by the imposing Palácio Nacional de Sintra. The medieval national palace was originally built for Moorish rulers and later became the residence of Portuguese royalty, who built additional wings and terraces, including two conical chimneys rising from the royal kitchen.

Across the palace square and throughout the historical center, shops line the streets selling souvenirs, art, linens, and Azulejo tiles; cafés and restaurant patios spill onto the sidewalks. I stop to enjoy a delicious plate of Polvo à Lagareiro — tender grilled octopus smothered in olive oil on a bed of potatoes and greens, a traditional Portuguese dish found on almost every restaurant menu.

Re-energized, I take a 15-minute walk down tree-lined streets to Quinta da Regaleira, a 19th-century villa built in neo-Gothic style. By early afternoon, the crowds are thick and tour buses disgorge even more sightseers. My intention is only to view the complex from outside, admiring the elaborate carvings and gargoyles, but if I return, I’ll come earlier to check out the interiors, which include an elaborate garden, a Gothic chapel, and hidden passageways and caves which sparked the rumor of the previous owner’s connection to the Knights Templar.

There’s a lot more in store in Sintra, including the whimsical but stately Palácio Nacional da Pena, and the Castelo dos Mouros that stands sentry over the Sintra hills, but I’m out of time and energy, and my G&T at the rooftop of NH Collection Lisboa Liberdade beckons. All the reason for me to return another time.

Before boarding my flight home, I pick up a few cans of sardines — Lisbon’s renowned edible souvenir. On a dreary winter day back home, they’ll remind me of the city’s sunny skies and hilly streets. I know I’ll return to the capital as there is much more to explore. If nothing else, I’ll be back for those tasty Pastéis de Nata and Pastéis de Belém.

MORE ABOUT VISITING LISBON AND AREA

Getting Around: With some research, there are ways to avoid the hills of Lisbon depending on where you are going, but don’t miss the spectacular viewpoints that dot the city. Wear comfortable flat shoes with good tread as the streets are cobblestoned or tiled, and the views come with steep steps. If all else fails, a tuk-tuk is always nearby to save the day.

The Lisbon public transit system is easy to use and inexpensive. Buy a reloadable Navegante card, which works on the Metro, the yellow Carris trams, and the urban trains to Belém and Sintra. The Metro also goes to the airport if you’re staying near a station and don’t have a lot of luggage to haul.

Travel Tips: To avoid crowds, Sintra is best visited in the off-season and early or late in the day. Due to its distance from Lisbon and the hilly terrain, consider joining a day tour that includes transportation to all the attractions.

Where to Stay: NH Collection Lisboa Liberdade is located in the Baixa district, directly across the street from the Avenida train station and a five-minute walk to Rossio train station. Bookings can be made for room-only or with a buffet breakfast. Plenty of shops, restaurants, and bars are within a 15-minute walk. Room Rates: A weekend night in February starts at €124.53 (about $132 USD), based on a recent search of the property’s booking engine.