Some people call it a spa, others consider it a boot camp, but the procession of guests who come year after year to make a serious commitment to wellness, fondly refer to it as The Ranch.
One hundred and fifty guests (mainly women) come, usually for a week. Some tell you they come to launch an exercise regime. Others, to eat healthy organic food and perhaps inch the belt a notch. The appeal for others means relax, refocus, and invest in their spiritual well-being. Whatever the reason, these few days provide a beautiful way to disconnect from the stresses of everyday life.
The first time I visited, I had no idea that my week-long experience would be transformative, that it would be one of the best gifts I could give myself. Or that my husband, my two daughters, and my best friend would feel this way when they arrived. Nor did I know that I would return many times, eager to maintain the sense of well-being that I had never felt before. It has never let me down.
The beauty of the mountain peaks and the serenity of the luxurious amenities make Rancho la Puerta a draw for wellness seekers. At top, mindfulness, relaxation, and reinvigoration are the focus of the retreat. (Anna Hobbs photo for Vacay.ca; Top photo courtesy of Rancho la Puerta)
From a humble beginning 85 years ago, Rancho la Puerta has won countless awards and many times been proclaimed “the world’s best wellness destination spa” by the readers of Travel + Leisure.
In 1940, a 34-year-old Hungarian émigré, Professor Edmund Szekely, and his 17-year-old American bride, Deborah, founded a primitive health camp in the sun-baked foothills of Mexico’s Sierra Madre Mountains. Guests paid $17.50 a week for the privilege of pitching their own tents and cooking their own meals, without the luxury of electricity or running water. “We had a mountain to climb, a river to walk in, and a creek to bathe in. We enjoyed simple, vegetarian meals and group exercises and at 4:00 pm each day. Edmond would lecture under the large oak trees,” recalls Deborah Szekely, who will celebrates her 103rd birthday on May 5, 2025.
Some thought the professor was a “nut case”; others dubbed him a “health cultist”. Turns out he was an ingenious visionary. The life-enhancing exercise routines and nutrition ideas he introduced caught on, eventually reshaping notions on fitness and self-care.
The professor, who died in 1979, would not recognize the place today.
Cardio drumming is among the dozens of exercise classes that guests at Rancho la Puerta can enroll in. (Photo courtesy of Rancho la Puerta)
Tents have given way to 86 red-brick casitas, each with a wood-beam ceiling, a living room with wood-burning fireplace, a spacious bedroom, a bathroom, and a private patio. Meandering brick pathways link the casitas to the gyms swimming pools, dining room, lounge, and men’s and women’s health centers. More than 4,000 acres of natural beauty surround 300 lushly landscaped acres. Deborah and her daughter, Sarah Livia Brightwood, who is now president, have carried on the professor’s philosophy, while moving with the times.
Staff members welcome guests at the San Diego airport where “a camp-for-grownups bus” takes you on the 90-minute drive south. The warmth of their greeting and the relaxed, seamless border crossing sets the tone for the friendliness of the week ahead.
Some arriving guests look exhausted. Others are tense with furrowed brows and shoulders hovering beneath their ears. By contrast, the 150 departing guests are all smiles and looking vibrant as they float off to the real world.
Lovely patios and alcoves make for ideal al fresco dining spots at Rancho la Puerta. (Anna Hobbs photo for VacayNetwork.com)
Arriving, I am always struck by the quiet, the beauty of the cloistered valley, and the heady mix of great swaths of lavender and rosemary throughout the lush gardens. Rising from the valley: Mount Kuchumaa, a sacred peak to the original settlers, the Kumeyaay Indigenous people. The landmark’s physical and spiritual presence have been felt by generations of the Kumeyaay, and more recently the Szekelys and their guests.
The days start with pre-breakfast hikes — your choice of an invigorating three- or four-mile mountain climb or a two-and-a-half-mile easier option or a two-mile meadow walk to the organic garden.
The fitness program, always evolving, continues to be cutting edge. And here comes the most difficult decision of the day. Which of 60-plus fitness classes to take. Stretch or yoga? Core or booty blast? Weight training or Pilates? It’s your choice. Afternoon options — dance class, sound healing, meditation — tend to be less physically demanding.
“You will get the most out of your week if, each day, you include one or two cardiovascular workouts, a strengthening class, one co-ordination and one flexibility class,” advised Director of Guest Experiences, Barry Shingle.
Evening programs include inspirational speakers, concerts, even popcorn with a movie.
Fitness classes at Rancho la Puerta provide hands-on coaching as well as plenty of down time to take in the property’s amenities. (Photo courtesy of Rancho la Puerta)
On my first visit, I eagerly filled every waking moment. By evening, of day one, muscles I didn’t know I owned were screeching. However, 50 minutes under the strong and caring hands of one of 30 locally trained massage therapists, pacified those muscles, making it easy to justify a daily massage as anything but excessive. Men’s and women’s health centers with steam rooms, whirlpools and saunas offer a range of massages and beauty treatments.
With time, I succumbed to the simple pleasure of reading a book poolside or indulging a meditative walk on the labyrinth. Checking out a hammock under a tree was fine too.
Buffet-style breakfasts and lunches are served in the dining room or, weather permitting (which it was in January), on the patio and surrounding balcony. Four-course dinners, served in the dining room, are where you make friends.
Yoga continues to be among the most popular wellness pursuits for visitors to Rancho la Puerta. (Photo courtesy of Rancho la Puerta)
The modified vegetarian diet (fish is on the menu four times a week) is varied and delicious. Most of the produce comes from Tres Estrellas, the Ranch’s six-acre organic garden. The hungriest of guests appreciate the availability of second helpings. La Cocina Que Canta (The Kitchen That Sings), a spacious classroom kitchen, offers guests a hands-on cooking experience featuring freshly picked produce from the garden.
Local wine and beer are served throughout the week at Bazar del Sol, the resort lounge. You can enjoy espresso or wine from the Guadalupe Valley, relax on the patio, and soak up the gorgeous mountain views.
What does Deborah Szekely hope guests will take home from The Ranch?
“The luckiest ones go home with a sense of balanced fitness,” she says, “that all-too rare harmony of body, mind, and spirit,” Wellness personified.
MORE ABOUT RANCHO LA PUERTA
Website: rancholapuerta.com
Address: Tecate, Baha California, Mexico
Getting There: Transportation from San Diego International Airport and return every Saturday is provided by the Ranch.
Cost: Rates start at $5,650 USD per week. Special rates available depending on the season.
