While planning my visit to Australia’s Victoria State, I had briefly read about Geelong and the Bellarine, a peninsula southwest of Melbourne. But I didn’t think there were enough reasons to include it in my itinerary — until Yasmin Paton of Visit Geelong and Bellarine reached out and convinced me. It turned out to be a major highlight of my trip.
From Melbourne, the M1 Highway passes Geelong (pronounced Je-long) — gateway to the Bellarine Peninsula, but I took a more relaxing, watery route. The Port Phillip Ferry sails from Melbourne, crossing Port Phillip Bay in 70 minutes — about the same time it would take to drive. The passenger-only catamaran is comfortable, with indoor and outdoor seating and a canteen serving snacks and beverages. As the ferry sailed down the Yarra River and into Port Phillip Bay, I enjoyed Melbourne’s beautiful skyline views over a frothy flat white.
The Bellarine — Beautiful and Undiscovered
Divine Portarlington blue mussels can be devoured at Pier Street Café. At top, the small city of Geelong is located on the shores of Corio Bay and features an attractive waterfront that makes for a pleasant stroll. (Ming Tappin photos for VacayNetwork.com)
As the ferry pulled into quaint Portarlington on the Bellarine Peninsula, Yasmin was waiting for me at the dock. She had planned a grand day out for us and was happy to play tour guide and driver. Our first stop was the Portarlington Grand Hotel, where general manager Greg Amor took us on a tour of the historic Victorian property. Perched high on the hill with views of Port Phillip Bay from the wrought-iron balconies, the space was established in 1888 and received an extensive renovation in 2022 by Melbourne-based Technē Architecture + Interior Design. The 18 beautiful rooms (some are wheelchair accessible) are well-appointed with locally made custom furnishings and tiled baths. Even if you aren’t staying here, you should come for a drink in the cozy bar, which serves the region’s outstanding wines and spirits, and grab a bite at the open-air Atrium or outdoors at The Lawn.
It didn’t take me long to notice a dramatic difference from Melbourne, where I had stayed the previous two nights. The streets of Portarlington weren’t filled with cars or crowded with tourists. Rather, the gentle sea breeze and the occasional squawking of gulls overhead were my only distractions. “This place is a hidden gem!” I told Paton, and she agreed. She had called the Bellarine Peninsula a detour destination, and it truly was a fine change from the bustling metropolis.
Opened in 1888, the historic Portarlington Grand Hotel has been fully refurbished and offers an intimate stay with just 18 rooms. (Ming Tappin photo for VacayNetwork.com)
We next ventured down to the waterfront to Pier Street Café, where we sampled the region’s prized shellfish — Portarlington blue mussels. Sitting at a picnic table under blue-and-white umbrellas, we dug into a heaping plate of fresh mussels steeped in Sri Lankan curry, and another in garlic and white wine. Paton told me there are boat tours that combine a hands-on visit to mussel farms on the water and a cooking demonstration and tasting, complemented by local produce and wines. I was suddenly wishing I was here for more than one day.
Our stomachs temporarily satiated, Paton drove us to our next stop — Jack Rabbit Vineyard. At nearly 300 feet above sea level, I stepped out of the car to an expansive view of Port Phillip Bay, and if the day was any clearer, Melbourne would be visible on the horizon. To compete with views like this, I thought to myself, the wines are going to have to be impressive.
Inside the Jack Rabbit Restaurant, I sat down to a sumptuous wine-pairing lunch. Fresh bread arrived at the table, accompanied by the chuckle-inducing Lard Ass butter, freshly churned in The Bellarine. The diverse menu featured meats, seafood, and produce grown and sourced from the local farms and waters.
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With a minimalist approach where “the fruit is the hero,” winemaker Nyall Condon has created award-winning, clean, and uncomplicated vintages that allow the nature of each varietal to shine through. From the vibrant Pinot Grigio and French-oaked Chardonnay to the earthy Pinot Noir and silky Shiraz, each wine was a delightful accompaniment to the meal. My favorite was an aromatic Heritage Reserve Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon, the first red bubbles I have ever tasted. And thus my question was answered — yes, the wines were just as impressive as the views.
Lunch was equally matched in quality and taste. My cured king fish starter was a mélange of flavors: smoky fish, crisp green salad, sour shallots, and tangy chèvre. The slow-cooked lamb shoulder melted in my mouth, but I did envy Paton’s snapper fillet, grilled to perfection on a bed of purple cauliflower, wild spinach, and shaved abalone. Before dessert, I strolled out to the expansive grounds to take in the vines and the turquoise waters of Port Phillip Bay beyond, imagining the outdoor parties and wedding receptions that take place in the summer under the twinkling stars. I peeked into the family-friendly House of Jack Rabbit restaurant next door, which serves casual bites with the same spectacular views. Back at the table, a chocolate fondant with passionfruit curd and meringue awaited, a rich ending to a divine meal.
There’s so much more to explore, including a 22-mile (35-kilometer) Bellarine Rail Trail, multiple golf courses, beaches, breweries, distilleries, and more. But my time was up, and Paton brought me to experience an evening in another under-the-radar destination, less than 30 minutes away.
Geelong — Not a Drive-by!
The Bollard Trail along the Geelong waterfront has over 100 bollards that have been transformed into fun characters that reflect Geelong’s past. (Ming Tappin photo for VacayNetwork.com)
Geelong is located on the shores of Corio Bay, between Melbourne and the start of the scenic Great Ocean Road. Many people — including me, originally — would likely drive through without stopping. I got to spend a precious few hours there and would encourage any traveler to do the same.
Despite being drizzly upon my arrival, the Geelong waterfront remained charming, with its giant Sky Wheel, vintage carousel, and the Art Deco Pavilion café. Part of my walk included the Bollard Trail, where reclaimed pier timbers have been whimsically reimagined by Melbourne artist Jan Mitchell to reflect Geelong’s history. While I only saw a snippet of the over 100 bollards along the waterfront, it certainly added a little fun to my stroll.
A dinner reservation was waiting at Sailor’s Rest, a 1913-built lodge originally constructed to harbor seafarers from the temptations of gambling and alcohol. Today, its original 1926 electric light bulb signs beckon visitors to enjoy indoor and al-fresco dining. An after-dinner stroll uphill to Little Malop Street brought me to Geelong’s food and cultural precinct, lined with eateries, bars, and galleries. The wealth of international fare would please any palate, whether it’s Greek mezes, French pâté, Asian dumplings, or South American empanadas.
On Paton’s recommendation, I popped into Geelong Cellar Door, where Geelong-born Jon Helmer was busy pouring glasses of wine behind a blue-and-white tiled bar. Written on a chalkboard overhead were 14 local wines, four international labels, and four fortified and dessert wines, available by the glass, decanter, or bottle. Unmistakably, I had walked into a wine heaven. With nearly four decades of experience in the wine industry, Helmer was a wealth of knowledge and the perfect proprietor of such a fine establishment. With my stomach full from dinner, I requested a digestif, and he poured me a golden glass of 2011 Botrytis Sémillon, a dessert wine by Wolseley Estate from nearby Surf Coast Hinterland. Of course, a short lesson came with the glass — to make the wine, the grapes are infected by the Botrytis fungus (you may have heard it called Noble Rot), resulting in increased concentration of sugars and aromas. The end product is a rich and complex wine ripe with stone fruits, and the sipping pleasure was all mine. Surrounded by glass cases full of wine bottles, green leather banquettes, and a cozy fireplace, I could have stayed here to explore additional vintages, but I had to move on to my final event.
On Little Malop Street, steps away from restaurants and bars, is the whimsical Geelong Arts Centre, which hosts various performances throughout the year. (Ming Tappin photo for VacayNetwork.com)
It took me two minutes to walk to the Geelong Arts Centre, a whimsical building painted in pastel color blocks and with a façade resembling a draped stage curtain. I caught a production of Mozart’s The Magic Flute, fresh from appearances at the Sydney Opera House and accompanied by Orchestra Victoria and the Opera Australia Chorus. With colorful costumes, shadow puppetry, and hand-made animal masks, I was not surprised to see many families in the audience.
After the show, I strolled back to the Novotel — my home for the night, located on Geelong’s waterfront. One last view of the sparkling lights of Corio Bay from my balcony and I retired after a sensational day. In 12 hours, I had barely scratched the surface of the diverse region. With so much to offer yet remaining peaceful and uncrowded, Geelong and The Bellarine was indeed worth the detour.
MORE ABOUT VISITING MELBOURNE
Getting There: Geelong and The Bellarine can be reached from Melbourne by highway, the Port Phillip Ferries, or commuter trains. Gull Airport Service also offers daily motor coach trips between Melbourne’s international airport and Geelong.
Attractions: There are a variety of things to see and do in Geelong and The Bellarine for the entire family, including arts and culture, beaches, parks, watersports, golf, boat tours, and more. For foodies, The Bellarine Taste Trail lists 40-plus venues to sip and savor your way through the peninsula.
For more information, visit Geelong and The Bellarine website.
