Plaza Nueva in the center of Seville is washed with morning sun, filtered through the laurel and ficus trees. The square is criss-crossed by walkers on their way to work, greeting each other or stopping to grab a coffee and churro from Chucherías Tina, the little stand under the trees. I delight in the colorful if noisy green parrots in the orange and jasmine trees but the elderly man sweeping the square sees me watching and points to them, shaking his head and muttering, “El fastidio!” — a nuisance.
I sit on a shady bench and wonder why the Spanish city feels so instantly welcoming. I have spent time in Barcelona and Madrid and, wonderful as those cities are, they remain busy beautiful places that you visit, look at their treasures, and leave.
Seville has made me want to linger.
Seville sits on the River Guadalquivir and has a history as a significant mercantile port. These days, it is more quiet and calm. At top, a girl is dressed in a ceremonial dress against antiquated tile work. (Barbara Ramsay Orr photos for VacayNetwork.com)
“What is it about this Andalusian city that makes it so seductive?” I ask myself. And the answers are clear.
First, it is the Sevillianos themselves, who make the city such an easy place to be. They have no special fuss of visitors, but accept them as part of the fabric of their life. People look you in the eye and nod or smile as they pass.
There is an easy chattiness when you dine. Attempts to use my rudimentary Spanish to order tapas in an outdoor cafe are met with a kind smile from the waiter, and friendly help from the family at the next table. “Maybe no rabo de toro,” the mother suggests. (That is stewed bull’s tail, I discover later!) “Maybe yes for flamenquin?” she suggests and her two boys give a thumbs-up. They are right on. I love these little breaded rolls of pork loin and serrano ham served with a mustard sauce.
Among the pleasures of Seville are tapas dishes, such as this one featuring shrimp. (Barbara Ramsay Orr photo for VacayNetwork.com)
The second reason this city calls to me is its undeniable beauty. From the terrace of my hotel I can look out on buildings of golden-hued stone, streets lined with laurel and orange trees. The cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, just a short walk away, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the adjoining Alcázar palace complex and the General Archive of the Indies. These are fascinating buildings to visit, intriguing in that this very Catholic cathedral was built on the bones of a mosque from the Almohad period. Christopher Columbus is buried on the property as well as his son Ferdinand.
Along the banks of the nearby River Guadalquivir are pathways for walking, small cafes, and the Torre de Oro. In the Plaza de Espana, there are gorgeous buildings, designed for the ill-fated 1929 world exhibition, as well as gardens and greenery and elegant fountains. On any day you visit the plaza, odds are you will find a sylph-slim girl dancing flamenco to the accompaniment of guitar music, a tribute to the fact that Andalusia is the birthplace of flamenco.
Why Seville Is Easy to See
Another compelling attribute that makes Seville so attractive is the ease with which you can get around. It is highly walkable, with large parts of the old city closed to traffic. That fact also makes it a good city to tour by bike. I book with a small company, SeeByBike, and am shown the highlights of the inner city, on a slow and informative bike ride. We pass a courtyard which “may” have been the fictional home of Rosina in Rossini’s opera, The Barber of Seville. We squeeze through narrow alleyways in the Jewish Quarter, cruise along the riverside, glance at the bull ring, and pedal sedately through the cool green shade of the Parque de Maria Louisa.
Beauty is one thing, but no city could capture my heart if its food wasn’t exceptional. The culinary scene in Seville is that, in a casual, authentically Spanish way. Small tapas bars abound, many of them just a few tables but all of them heralding the casual traditions of the tapas. At Abades Triana I stop for a sherry fino, watching the sculls on the river while enjoying plump cod fritters, patatas bravas, and the best olives I have ever tasted. Across the river, the evening sun gilds the Torre de Oro and illuminates the families out for their evening paseo.
Torre de Oro (or Tower of Oro) is the primary landmark in Seville. (Barbara Ramsay Orr photo for VacayNetwork.com)
Try the ubiquitous gazpacho, sometimes served as a cool drink. Order anything that includes the deliriously delicious jamón ibérico, or pescaíto frito (little fried fish) or paella, washed down with sherry or sangria. Food is served with an unassuming ceremony that makes dining a slow paced and social meal, leaving time to people watch and chat.
One more positive attribute of Seville is its position, ideal for countryside day trips, should you wish to explore beyond the city.
Slumbering on a sunny hilltop 19 miles (30 kilometres) from Seville is the village of Carmona, whose walls, gates, and people constitute a living museum. Carmona is a perfect day trip. One of the most ancient towns in Andalusia, Carmona combines the narrow streets from its Moorish occupation with Baroque palaces built by Spanish nobility in the 18th century. The result is a symphony of architectural styles, white-washed walls and sleepy squares.
Visitors to the Torreluna horse-training facility can get close to the majestic animals and their pristinely dressed trainers. (Barbara Ramsay Orr photo for VacayNetwork.com)
At Torreluna, a stud farm 12 miles (19 km) from Seville, the finest Andalusian horses are bred and trained. I watch in admiration as skilled riders in traditional Spanish equestrian costume perform syncopated rides in the inner arena. Outside in the fenced practice field, the riders warm up, sauntering their horses and executing difficult turns and switchbacks. I tour the stud farm with a guide and am treated to a unique experience — watching an ultrasound being performed on one of the pregnant brood mares.
Osuna, about 54 miles (87 km) from Seville, is known for its fine architecture. The street I climb, Calle San Pedro, has been named the prettiest street in Europe because of the Baroque palaces that line it. The Palace of the Marques de la Gomera is particularly notable. Now a luxury hotel, the palace hosted the cast of Game of Thrones when they were filming nearby.
The day trips are excellent, but for me they are a sidebar to time in the city. Seville has been called the most romantic city in Europe and while that may be true, for me it is a city that feels warm and accessible. I would call it charm but that word has been so overused that it has lost its force. Let’s just say that, as I sit on that sun-drenched bench in the square, I am already imagining my return.
MORE ABOUT VISITING SEVILLE
Like many places in Europe, Spain is easily enjoyed when you tour it by train. (Barbara Ramsay Orr photo for VacayNetwork.com)
When to Go: Visit in shoulder season — the summers are sizzling hot. While there are direct international flights, I flew into Madrid and caught the train to Seville. The train system in Spain is excellent. You can also fly from Madrid or Barcelona to Seville inexpensively.
What to Do: Rent a bike, or take a guided tour, through SeeByBike. I did an initial exploration tour with this company and it was excellent.
Where to Stay: Hotel Inglaterra in the heart of the old part of town, overlooking the Plaza Nueva. The rooftop bar is a brilliant place to watch the sunset. Nightly rates start at about $139 US ($200CAD) in shoulder season, rising to about $243 US ($350 CAD) in high season.
Where to Dine: Abades Triana is a casual dining spot right beside the river, serving tapas as well as full meals. Casa del Tigre is a perfect spot for a glass of sherry and a plate of patatas bravas. It’s a small gem tucked away on Calle Amparo in the center of the old part of Seville.
Day Trips: There are buses from Seville that will take you to Carmona in about an hour. It is a 22-minute drive if you have a car. Granada is a short train ride from Seville.
