In the heart of Dusseldorf’s old town, my wife and I stumbled upon a very Yuletide scene. There were cozy wood-beamed chalets strung with garland and illuminated by twinkling lights, selling unexpected treasures—handmade ornaments, carved wooden soldiers, nutcrackers, unique crafts, and splendid decorations. In the city’s medieval square was a brightly painted carousel and a life-size, wood-hewn Nativity scene that told Christmas’s greatest story. Traditional holiday music drifted through the square, as joyful choirs and wonderful carolers decked out in period garb sang on every street corner. And there were charming huts filled with Christmas goodies and mouth-watering treats; gingerbread, warm pretzels and delicious bratwurst.
Soft snowflakes began to fall as if on cue, dusting the cobblestone lanes and coating the glittering market stalls. We found ourselves in a festive swirl of the heart-warming sights, sounds and smells of Christmas. The people, bundled up against the chill, moved through the square like synchronized dancers, greeting strangers like us with warm smiles. We grabbed some hot mugs of spiced glühwein to join in the cheer.
A barbecue on deck and hot spiced wine were among the culinary highlights while floating through the beautiful castle-strewn hillsides along the Rhine River. At top, a trip highlight for the author was sailing through the legendary Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage site. (Photo of the barbecue courtesy of Riverside Luxury Cruises; cruise ship photo by Christopher Warren)
I felt like I had tottered into a Dickens “Christmas Carol” diorama — I mean in a nostalgic way, not ghosts floating about chastising me for my curmudgeonly Christmas thoughts. I will admit, I have been a bit of a Scrooge of late. I don’t know about you, but sometimes I find the holiday season hectic and fleeting. I enjoy the family time and our festive traditions, but some of the magic I felt for the season when I was young has been lost somewhere, and I am often overwhelmed by the commercial beat of the holidays. Humbug!
Dusseldorf’s Christmas Market is a delightful attraction in the heart of the city. (James Ross photo for VacayNetwork.com)
Looking around me now, I realize I may have found the tonic for the holiday blahs. Who knew that sailing on a river cruise up the romantic Rhine, and stopping in enchanting villages with their Christmas Markets would charm me into no longer being the grinch? The holiday spirit thrives in Europe, where Christkindlmarkt turns grand city squares and baroque palaces into wonderlands. The banks of the Rhine play host to some of the continent’s oldest and most treasured Christmas customs. Germany has held festive markets dating to the 13th and 14th centuries.
I cruised up the Rhine on the Riverside DeBussy from Amsterdam to Frankfurt, on a trip that has taken me back in time to the roots of revered holiday traditions. From the moment I boarded the ship, I was immersed in the celebration of the season. The entire ship was decorated, Christmas trees glittered in the lobby, while twinkling lights and garland glowed on the ship’s outside railings. On every surface, there were platters piled high with chocolate-glazed gingerbread cookies and truffles, and an elaborate handmade gingerbread village held center stage in the main restaurant.
Huts filled with Christmas goodies have been part of the Dusseldorf market tradition for centuries. (James Ross photo for VacayNetwork.com)
At the end of each day of exploration, we returned to our ship to savor the tantalizing cuisine of Riverside’s “Taste of Christmas” program, and an evening full of seasonal entertainment. While the gingerbread and glühwein on shore are certainly worth sampling, the food on board is just as memorable. Riverside’s award-winning culinary program emphasizes seasonal ingredients, local inspiration, and restaurant-quality execution, served in beautifully designed spaces with panoramic river views.
You also have several dining venues to choose from when cruising aboard the Debussy. Find delicious tapas at the Bistro, Michelin-inspired à la carte selections at the Waterside, and grilled fish and juicy steaks at the Vista Bar & Grill, all paired with a delicious riesling from the Rhine region. For the ultimate dining experience, try the elegant and exclusive Vintage Room, a private enclave that welcomes up to 10 guests for a seven-course wine-paired dinner.
A life-size, wood-hewn Nativity scene is a remarkable sight in the Dusseldorf Christmas Market. (James Ross photo for VacayNetwork.com)
Cruising the river in daylight, a trip highpoint was sailing through the legendary Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bundled against the chill, we enjoyed a barbecue on deck and hot spiced cider, while floating through the beautiful castle-strewn hillsides and past Lorelei rock, named for a siren whose song bewitched passing sailors and lured them to disaster on the ragged shore. We avoided any catastrophe, but the gorge was hauntingly beautiful. Mist shrouded the vineyards along the cliffs, and curled around crumbling towers perched above the water.
Deep in the heart of the Rhine Gorge is the romantic wine village of Rüdesheim, one of the river’s most popular ports. After a visit and tasting at the Trenz winery, we took an evening stroll from our ship into the Old Town of Rüdesheim, following the Drosselgasse, a street lined with old-world architecture, boutiques, and countless cozy wine taverns, a street so quaint it looked designed by Santa’s elves. It led us to the Christmas Market of the Nations, which featured traditions and goods from 15 countries. Every corner was alive with candlelight, mulled wine, and the laughter of locals. Heading back to the ship, I sampled a Rüdesheimer Kaffee, a local coffee drink served with brandy and whipped cream.
The elegant ship, the Riverside DeBussy, cruises the Rhine and features exceptional views and cuisine. (Photo courtesy of Riverside Luxury Cruises)
Situated where the Rhine meets the Neckar River is Mannheim, nicknamed the Square City for its grid layout, and the City of Inventions, birthplace of the automobile, bicycle, and tractor. The city surprised me with its mix of baroque grandeur and modern energy. At its Christmas Market, I found a vendor selling intricately carved nutcrackers. Later, we toured the massive Mannheim Palace, its grand halls glowing under holiday lights.
Mainz is a city rich in Roman history and festive charm. The Old Town’s narrow, winding lanes pass by half-timbered and patrician houses, the 13th-century Iron Tower, Electoral Palace, and the thousand-year-old Mainz Cathedral. The Christmas market nestled in the shadow of the cathedral was a sea of lights, red canopies, and joyous chaos. I wandered among the stalls, bought a warm pretzel, and listened to a choir singing carols in both German and English. Wooden toys, blown-glass ornaments, and the scent of spiced almonds filled the square. I stopped to watch children ride a two-story carousel as a brass quartet played “O Tannenbaum.”
Visitors can grab some hot mugs of spiced glühwein to join in the cheer at Christmas markets in Germany. (James Ross photo for VacayNetwork.com)
At that moment, I felt completely in the present, not thinking about gifts or to-do lists, not worrying about the year behind or the one ahead, just enjoying cruising up the picturesque Rhine, surrounded by centuries of festive cheer. As the ship prepared to make its final docking in Frankfurt, I realized the journey wasn’t just an escape, but a comforting reminder that the magic of the season still exists, especially when you slow down enough to experience it. The Christmas markets made me feel the wonder of the holiday, as if I was a child again.
MORE ABOUT RIVERSIDE LUXURY CRUISES
Notable: Riverside Luxury Cruises is Europe’s newest and most luxurious river cruise line. It offers distinctive vacations on the Rhine, Rhône, Danube, Moselle, and Main rivers. The all-suites Riverside Debussy features the largest average suite size, all with king-size beds, plus the highest staff-to-guest ratio and up to five onboard restaurants. With a maximum occupancy of 100 guests, the ship had more in common with a boutique hotel than the vibe of an ocean liner.
Season: Europe’s fabled Christmas Markets typically open around November 25 and stay operational until December 23 or 24 each year.
